2012年10月26日 星期五

Nicola Formichetti


"It's tradition. When I started working in fashion, Lee McQueen invited me to his office and I saw his mood board. There were so many art historical and fashion references on the board and next to it was a real dress that he had made by referring to a photo on the board. I was completely shocked and thought, is this fashion? Is it remaking what people did ages ago? When I was younger I didn't believe in it. I wanted to create everything without history, to start anew. I tried that for a few years and I ended up stuck; I couldn't do anything. Then I realised its necessary to have an awareness of history in order to move forward. I care about linking the present moment – the "now" – to the traditions of the past." 

以上是Nicola  Formichetti與AnOther.com 對談時的其中一段對話,大致講述他看待時裝的態度和方法,而精警的地方是後段紅色的部份,
Nicola明確地指出歷史(可泛指時裝史,藝術史以至整個人文歷史)對一個時裝工作者的重要性,創意並非一樣會在石頭裏自動爆出來的東西,它的出現就如Nicola 所說般是種透過歷史的承傳而洐生出來的東西,所以為創作者也好,為一個時尚工作者也好,尊重歷史,看重歷史,對其工作必定有事半功倍之效。但可惜的是,有很多俢讀時裝設計的香港學生,其看待時裝的態度就如年青時的Nicola 一樣 "wanted to create everything without history, to start anew",只懂得去清談玄學,欠缺厚實的知識根基就話去從事創作,最終設計出來的東西往往以一團糟收場。

所以熱愛時裝,絶非叫你天天去逛街購物花大量的金錢時間去打扮自己批評別人就是,反之,花更多的時間去閱讀有關時裝的書籍(去圖書館借也好,去page one買又得)才是進修時裝提昇自己的皇道!

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